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Nearchus says that the Indians dye their beards various colours; some that they may appear white as the whitest, others dark blue; others have them red, others purple, and others green. Naturally, guests dressed up in spectacular looks that paid homage to the country's rich history, many in Indian designers. Bowles’ own writing and vision cocoons these contributions, which are divided into two sections: the first is a survey of India’s textiles, costume traditions and craftsmanship, the second a series of profiles of Indian designers and those who have incorporated Indian influences into their work.
As part of larger revival movement in the Indian textile industry, Ritu Kumar, a Kolkata-based designer and textile print-expert started working on reviving the traditional hand block printing techniques of Bengal, and making it a part of the fashion industry, established "ethnic chic".Yash Dongre, head of international operations and e-commerce at House of Anita Dongre, says the brand DNA has always been about rethinking the Indian aesthetic for a global audience. The breadth of styles stemming from this inspiration range from designers including Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior and Schiaparelli to clothes worn by royalty in different parts of the world. This week’s round-up of global markets fashion business news also features Dubai Duty Free, Mexican garment workers and Hong Kong beauty giant Sa Sa International.
The opening brought in celebrities from all over the world, including Gigi Hadid, Zendaya, Tom Holland, Priyanka Chopra and Nick Jonas, Deepika Padukone, and others. Throughout the book, each author examines India’s global fashion influence through a critical lens, acknowledging complexity and agency often denied. Spread over 50,000 square feet, the exhibit also connects spatial design with a sensual play of colors and textures on walls and floors. In the sari section, which was the boldest section, what we did — there were large vintage prints of different kinds of fabrics, most of them were brocades, different kinds of sari prints which we then blew up to a much larger scale.
Khadi and its products were encouraged by the nationalist leaders over British goods, while also being seen as a means to empower the rural artisans. He has brought colourful prints for men and with the likes of celebrities such as Ranveer Singh, Shahid Kapoor popularising such looks, men in India have become more experimental and flamboyant in their outlook. A Valentino section with a single outfit showcases the wedding lehnga (the Indian-style gathered long skirt, popular at weddings) created for Isha Mukesh Ambani, the daughter of billionaire Mukesh Ambani, an unusual piece using thousands of crystal beads and lace that took nearly a year from initial design to final creation.
Amit Aggarwal created a gown for Priyanka Chopra made with fabric from a vintage Banarasi brocade saree, while Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla designed an ensemble for Gigi Hadid that drew from South Indian temple jewelry. Traditional Indian embroidery techniques; design motifs; and dress forms such as saris, jodhpurs, and turbans are reimagined by renowned designers Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiaparelli, Pierre Balmain, Zandra Rhodes, Halston, Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, Gianni Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Alexander McQueen, in addition to a wealth of contemporary Indian designers. A new book, India in Fashion (Rizzoli) , edited by Vogue Global Editor at Large and World of Interiors Editor in Chief Hamish Bowles, explores the nation’s sartorial legacy in vivid, expansive and captivating form. Garg is a textile designer and founder of Raw Mango- a design house creating new conversations in textile and culture through a range of saris, garments and objects. Kinmonth’s deep red Mughal-style arches, set as a portal, lead into room after room of “conversations” between eras, cultures, and crafts.More recently, Malhotra and Mukherjee were on opposite sides of a battle between the retail units of Indian conglomerates investing in more than a dozen local designer brands. The world has a terrible habit of pigeonholing designers to their geographies if they’re not from the western world.
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